Jul 26 2012

Drawing Lines And Fire

Category: In The Media,KazakhstanChrisM @ 2:24 pm

Although the 2011 terrorist attacks here in Kazakhstan have, thankfully, not continued this year, the Central Asia region as a whole remains unstable in some areas. Within Kyrgyzstan there was the ethnic violence against Uzbeks, and border clashes and car bombs in Tajikistan, around the Badakhshan region.
For the unseasoned reader (I definitely include myself in that category), what territorial disputes are really about in this area can be hard to fathom sometimes. Back in Britain, where your typical argument over boundary disputes are more likely to be about a neighbour’s fence that is allegedly two foot into your garden, or a farmer taking issue with ramblers veering off established rights of way, the worst that can happen is a legal judgement against you. Here in Central Asia, disagreements over where one legal entity starts and another finishes can have extrajudicial consequences. With national boundaries often drawn up in Soviet times, ethnic groupings can find themselves arbitrarily split across two or even three countries, even if it is a relatively small land area. In Britain, one neighbour may well blame the other by claiming that a fence was moved whilst they were on holiday, and that valuable land has effectively been stolen from them. Over here, governments will often blame militants from minority religions in the area and/or Afghanistan-based groups. This tends to draw sympathy (rather than condemnation for excessive violence and persecution) from the international crowd, and diverts attention away from human rights abuses.

 

Although official news sources (such as government websites, or press agencies run by relatives of officials) are obviously not great for understanding the real story behind sometimes shocking headlines, as my old history teacher always tried to ensure we took in, propaganda is useful in it’s own right to comprehend what the powers that be in a certain area want conclusions outsiders (as well as their own citizens) are supposed to make. Check this page from the BBC to see how ethnic groups are dispersed amongst the former Soviet republics (and how political borders cut these groupings into different states) in Central Asia. The latest information to come from the border between Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan is that Uzbek and Kyrgyz border guards exchanged fire, with one death recorded. However, both government obviously dispute who fired first, the provocation that initially caused this flare up of violence, and whether boundary disputes are to blame or not.
For more information and links to (mostly Russian language) related articles and government press releases regarding this incident, see EurasiaNet’s article here.


Jul 26 2012

Borovoe Burabay

Category: Eating Out,Friends,Kazakh Driving,PicturesChrisM @ 10:48 am

Once again, here is a post that compiles a few tweets sent out recently. Justin (soon to return to Britain), DanS and I all decided on Saturday lunchtime that our last weekend together in Astana should be spent doing something other than the usual bar and club visits within the city. Dan and I had previously mulled over the idea of getting up to Borovoe, but never quite organized ourselves and committing to a date. I had hoped to visit the area since about 2007, but attempting to coordinate with Ira’s in-laws, friends, and all the planning that would have had to be in place for others to be happy meant it just has not occurred.
As this was to be a sort of farewell celebration for Justin, Dan and I decided we should probably check he would actually be interested in going before getting too excited. Luckily, he was definitely interested in seeing what life was like near, but outside of, Astana. So, after throwing together supplies (beer, snacks, sun screen, tunes for the journey and transferring my GPS and car video recorder to Dan’s car, we were ready. Dan had volunteered to drive, which was good for two reasons 1) His car is bigger, so more leg room for the passengers and 2) I could have a few drinks on the way to get into the swing of things!
A couple of friends were already at Borovoe (Burabay if you transliterate the Kazakh, instead of Russian name for the town), so we made sure we knew where they were roughly, and also remembered seeing an online flyer for an open air music night. Although the web page that had details of the bar/club had been taken down, I eventually tracked down another site that still had the details, and popped the address into the GPS. It turned out that there was a village with the same name as the area of Borovoe we were headed to, so we wasted an hour or so at the beginning of the journey heading in the wrong direction. Rather than get too annoyed, we just saw it as discovering a bit more of Kazakhstan we had not seen before!

After the police checkpoint had been passed (I know that neither I, nor any of my friends ever break the law, so I’ll frame this story as happening to the car next to us), during which we saw the car next to us have to pay a fine for not coming to a complete stop (there are normally two types of fine here in Kazakhstan, the official one normally based upon trumped versions of events, and the slightly cheaper amount which involves no paperwork and a local official suddenly having more money in his pocket that at the start of his shift), we settled down into a nice routine of driving along the superb road (probably the best condition I’ve ever come across here, 140km/hr was possible and safe!), stopping for an occasional cigarette and drink at picnic spots on the route.
Once we arrived, we attempted to meet up with our friends, but discovered they were in a different area, and heading to bed soon. We decided to head towards the open air music event, and soon found ourselves in a semi-orderly queue, with the tunes putting us in the right frame of mind for a good night out. Once inside the perimeter, we found a big bar in the middle (podium dancers making a pleasant visual distraction whilst waiting to be served), with a stage (one MC, one DJ and another dancer I think?), and a lot of people enjoying the music, the drink and ambience. This continued into Sunday, so I’ll save that for another post.


Jul 19 2012

Car Videos Coming Soon! Maybe?

Category: Kazakh DrivingChrisM @ 2:26 pm

In case you are not the sort of blog reader who notices when a tag cloud changes, this site has had a few hundred old posts properly tagged recently. That means I only have a few thousand left to trawl through! Why make this effort? I hope that when Google (other search engines are apparently available πŸ˜‰ ) next crawls this site, and comes across the tags pages via the sitemap, it will lead to me picking up a few more visitors who are interested in the same topics I write about. Traffic has dipped a little bit recently, from around 10,000 unique visitors a month to just 6 or 7,000.
Also on the To Do list for this site are the Anna and Tim photos that are always piling up waiting to be published (I was reminded just how far behind I am when tagging some of the older Anna posts). There is also a huge pile of car videos (from our in-car recorder) that I would like to go through and either delete (most of them), or edit and upload to YouTube for embedding here. I don’t know how well some of the recent WTF! moments were caught, but there should be a few.
Recently we have seen a lot more Suzuki SX4s (the same as our Kazakh car) here in Astana, and we occasionally exchange thumbs up or waves. It is good to finally see a little diversity in the cars on the road, as although all the Toyotas mean that should you buy one yourself, spare parts and expertise with repairs will be in abundance, it does get a little monotonous. We do see nicer cars around, like Mercedes SLs, various AMG tuned cars and 4x4s and full on super cars, but our budget didn’t run that far when we bought the car!
On Tuesday we saw a bumper sticker that read “Astana Street Racing” on a car in front of us, which didn’t seem like a great idea, should they get stopped by an English language reading traffic cop during an illegal street race…

Hello officer, why did you stop me?

You were racing your friend

Me? No, I am just on the way to pick up my granny from hospital

Points at the bumper sticker

Oh… Yes… Umm…

Ignoring the issue of self-labelling oneself as a street racer, we know some people use the local car park to impress their friends with high powered engines and much squealing of tyres, but I hadn’t realized that Astana does actually seem to have a real established street racing scene, as a friend was invited to attend such an event in a suped up Scooby.

I would be interested to see if any local drivers (cars and golf clubs) would be up for trying to beat that record, though I’m guessing it would need to be at the airport, not one of the golf range/courses outside of Astana in the Steppe somewhere!
Right, I am going to go away for now, I need to drag my body to the gym and try not to collapse or break anything πŸ™‚

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Jul 13 2012

Astana Internet Choices

Category: Internet Connections,KazakhstanChrisM @ 5:31 am

Recently a few people have asked me for advice about living in Astana, either because they are new to the area, or have not yet actually arrived. Some of the older posts (the key ones are linked to on the Kazakhstan 101 page) are still useful, but where prices have risen, or locally available technology has moved on, new advice is sometimes needed. So, without further ado, here are your choices if you want to access the internet in Astana. As ever, I’m happy to receive suggestions/corrections, so do please feel free to leave a comment below.

Megaline – The main ADSL internet company here in Astana. You will sometimes find that VISPs (virtual internet service providers) exist, where they take Megaline’s connection, and feed it out to a few blocks of flats, but I have not yet come across a true competing ISP. Compared to five years ago, the speed, price and reliability has improved greatly.

ID TV – I had originally thought this was a combined internet and TV package that was from a different company than Megaline. However, it turns out that ID TV is from Kazakhtelecom (the main telephone company here in Astana, who also provide Megaline’s ADSL services). The channel selection seems to be slightly wider than that offered by AlmaTV (assuming their website is up to date, as AlmaTV lost quite a few channels I liked recently), however there are some inconveniences, related to the delivery method. IPTV is used, so instead of a special wire (cable TV), normal aerial (standard TV, no DVB-T in Astana yet), or satellite dish (Hotbird, NTV Plus (though we are well out of the range of Astra and therefore UK Sky channels are impossible to receive conventionally here)), ID TV (the company, IPTV is the transmission method) uses your phone line. This means that you will probably see a slight dip in your internet download speeds and that changing channels apparently takes 10 seconds each time! It looks as though you choose from Megaline’s broadband packages if you don’t already have an internet connection set up, then select which TV channel package you want.

Internet TV Packages

There are other choices here in Astana, for example there was a WiMax system being trialled a few years ago, and I know of at least one business that uses this for internet access and voice over IP (telephone calls), as they have no land line. I will try and find out more about this, though it will not be for a couple of months at least.
If your internet access needs are more mobile, then a USB 3G Dongle could be what you need. You plug the device (with a SIM card in it) into your laptop, and use the mobile phone network to access the world wide web. As with Britain though (see this BBC article), coverage in Astana is not 100%, and even when 3G network coverage is displayed as available, the speeds can sometimes be closer to Edge, if not 2G!

Similar to this, but without the requirement for new hardware, is tethering your mobile phone to your laptop (basically using a USB lead, WiFi or bluetooth), and using your existing mobile phone account to access the internet on your computer. However, you do need to make sure your current choice of account does not charge a lot per Mb used, and it is probably worth checking whether your mobile phone company (KCell, Active, Beeline etc.) offers any bundles, where you pay for a fixed amount, that expires after a month.

Finally, should you find yourself without a mobile phone, dongle, or ADSL-enabled phone line, you could always go old school and use a dial up modem. The speed will make you weep, the phoneline will be engaged should anyone try and call you, but if all else fails those screeching tones, that indicate a handshake is taking place, can be a godsend.

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Jul 11 2012

Sky Bar – Asia Park

Category: Eating Out,Personal,Tim's PhotosChrisM @ 9:50 pm

This evening we popped over to the Asia Park shopping centre. Primarily because one of Irina’s friends has her birthday this week, and Dana had kindly passed on a voucher she bought at Chocolife for the Bomb Cosmetics boutique. Whilst Irina decided on the gift (I’ll not yet post details on the off chance that Balzhan ever actually practices her English by reading this site!), Tim, Anna and I took a little stroll up and down, during which time Anna wanted an explanation as to why she couldn’t eat the apple on a plastic tree, and Tim eventually conceded that not having Mummy directly in front of him did not mean a constant scream was required. Eventually a gift (and something for our flat, a nice smelling citrus candle that caught my eye) was selected, and we proceeded upstairs with the idea of grabbing a quick and easy tea from the fast food area. Every other time we have visited this mall in the past, and selected the naughty but nice treat of no cooking or clearing up, we have gone with pizza. Today, however, was a break from the routine, as we decided to finally check out the prices of the Sky Bar. Although not cheap, given the view and the relatively upmarket (for a shopping centre) feel, we decided to try it out.
Quite a few items of food and drink from their menu were not available, but I decided to try their beef schnitzel. Well worth the gamble, definitely the second best schnitzel I’ve had in Astana. Given that I can not remember which restaurant served the best ever (I’ve tried all the likely suspects, all of them disappointed), I think the Sky Bar will be getting a few return visits in the months to come! Irina had sushi (she thought it was an average result in terms of taste, but definitely small portions considering the price), and Anna had the (beef!) carbonara. As it was an adult-sized portion, Ira and I helped her to finish it off in the end. Do our sacrifices know no end? πŸ˜‰



Oh that reminds me, for friends and family who have an interest, I don’t think I’ve yet mentioned on the blog the reason that all four of us have mostly been in the flat since last Thursday, rather than the normal rushing around to playgroup, Chubary etc. – it turns out that Anna and Tim have both got bacterial tonsillitis (at least that is the closest translation we could fine, and it apparently is different to viral tonsillitis?). So we have been trying to keep their temperatures down, dealing with short sleeps/naps, and generally not doing a great deal instead.


Jul 10 2012

Astana Park Tweets

Category: Anna's Photos,Eating Out,Personal,Tim's PhotosChrisM @ 11:20 pm

About a week ago we went to Astana park on a couple of different days, and rather than have this site’s front page be almost entirely tweet-based, I’m putting the photos and text into one post.

Whilst in the park, I watched a transverse (push left, it goes right, and vice versa) bike competition (pay an entrance fee, manage to cylce about 30m and you got a good payout. I heard Black Lace’s “Agadoo” being played over some speakers near by. Real blast from the past!

The cafe shown is Otrar, it had much improved decor in the outside section, compared to a visit two years ago. Sadly, the pizza was not really average even πŸ™


Jun 28 2012

Kazakh 11 Year Old Chess Grand Master!

Category: Kazakhstan,VideosChrisM @ 8:03 pm

Kazakh-based press agencies seem to quote the girl as being 11 years old, and the youngest ever Grand Master, however an international site – ChessDom states she is 12, and that the title for youngest ever remains with Yifan Hou, but whatever the case, it is certainly a huge achievement for someone so young.

You can read a bit about some of her games, and some other’s thoughts on her here.


Jun 26 2012

Picnic In The Park II

Category: Eating Out,Friends,Personal,PicturesChrisM @ 6:38 pm

The day following the birthday party and first use of the new pool, I headed over to the Presidential Park here in Astana, as Lara (and Dan) had organized another picnic. This was to celebrate the end of the academic year (Lara runs a language school), and so teachers, pupils and parents all attended. It was in a different location to last time, and as I was driving, I can recall the entire day as well! Everyone seemed to enjoy themselves, and it was great to have a bit of proper shade to collapse into, after playing football for the first time since school! My left leg is still complaining about the sprinting without any warming up, and I had a killer of a headache (mild heat stroke? it was pushing 35 in the midday sun) later on, but I’m really glad I attended.


Jun 21 2012

Tiflis.Ira had lovely hair sty…

Category: Anna's Photos,Eating Out,Tim's Photos,TweetsChrisM @ 8:30 pm

Tiflis.Ira had lovely hair styling.Meal=almost wk/end treat4us http://t.co/IInCk7KT http://t.co/x79z1sgl http://t.co/NP6gDzFy

Live Singing. Apparently Costs 1000 Tenge Per Table!

Anna Having Enjoyed Her Milkshake

Tim And Irina

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Jun 14 2012

Treat lunch at Il Patio (Prosp…

Category: Anna's Photos,Eating Out,Tim's Photos,TweetsChrisM @ 2:05 pm

Treat lunch at Il Patio (Prospekt Respublika branch) with Irina, Anna & Tim. Sushi (Ira) and pizza (me & Anna) – http://t.co/TMEetBMM

Tim, Anna & Irina At Il Patio, Astana, Kazakhstan

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